Turquoise a gift from gods (2016) - Article for ART AND ANTIQUES magazine
Author: Martin Cinolter for Art and Antiques Magazine
When talking about diamonds as the "hardest tears of the gods," turquoise could rightfully be called the "gift of the gods." This is how it was referred to by both Native Americans and Persians. Mentions of turquoise mining on the Sinai Peninsula date back 10,000 years. This is confirmed by the discovery of an 8,000-year-old gold bracelet decorated with turquoise in the tomb of Egyptian Queen Zer.
The Pharaohs and Egyptians were particularly fond of the stone; it can even be found on Tutankhamun's death mask. The earliest mentions and findings of the gift of the gods come from Egypt and Persia. Turquoise has been mined for centuries and is still mined today using outdated and hazardous methods. On the Sinai Peninsula, the Serabit el-Khadim and Wadi Maghareh mines are thought to be among the oldest in the world. The Egyptians called it "Kallai," and the Arabs named it "Fairuz," which translates as the stone of happiness. Native Americans believed that attaching it to a bow would make them excellent archers. The Turks thought it protected horses from overheating. The Turks, who traded extensively in gemstones, gave turquoise its name, which is now used globally. They imported it from Persia to Europe, and the French referred to it as "pierre turquise," meaning Turkish stone, although it is not mined in Turkey. The term turquoise is so popular that it is also used as a colour name. On the American continent, the stone was widely used by Native Americans in healing practices and the decoration of various ritual objects, jewellery, and weapons, long before Columbus, as evidenced by the discovery of turquoise masks. It held great significance in Aztec and Mayan cultures, which considered it sacred. Ordinary people could not wear it; it was a gift for the gods. Turquoise was also used to create magnificent sacrificial jewellery and objects. Worth mentioning is the turquoise mosaic mask of Xiuhtecuhtli, the Aztec god of fire, which is now housed in the British Museum of Ethnography. The origins of turquoise use and processing in East Asia are found in India and China, where it was even used as a construction element. In Persia, turquoise is considered the national stone, as evidenced by the discovery of beads up to 5,000 years old. Sacred Persian temples are decorated with turquoise both inside and out. Notable is the dome of the mosque in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, entirely made of turquoise, which has withstood centuries of weathering and natural disasters.
Myths
Turquoise is shrouded in many legends and attributed with numerous qualities, both true and mythical. In ancient times, it was considered the gemstone of the gods and longevity. It is associated with the planet Saturn and is said to bring good luck. It absorbs negative influences that might harm the body and protects against the evil eye. It positively influences communication, supports decisiveness, and shields against criticism. It soothes the mind, replenishes energy, and balances mood swings. It is believed to protect its owner from venomous snakebites, and Roman emperors used it to defend against poisoning. Today, it is said to protect mobile phone users from radiation. There is also a belief that if it turns grey, the owner faces danger or illness. If it darkens, the owner should beware of their partner, as it is thought to indicate infidelity. In truth, turquoise changes colour depending on external conditions, making it a relatively sensitive stone that reacts to temperature changes and, for example, the acidity of sweat. Exposure to these changes, or to cosmetics, can cause turquoise to lose its colour and turn grey. Therefore, it should be regularly cleaned under lukewarm running water and "recharged" briefly in direct sunlight. Occasionally, it is also a good idea to let turquoise, particularly turquoise jewellery, rest on a crystal cluster.
Jewellery
Perhaps no other stone has been as widely used in jewellery-making worldwide as turquoise. It ranks 5–6 on the Mohs scale of hardness, approximately halfway up the scale. It is easy to work with and is most commonly cut into a cabochon shape. Turquoise is a porous gemstone, and in most cases, it is infused with artificial resin, which enhances its colour and hardens its surface.
One of the most common treatments is stabilisation, an impregnation method that reduces the porosity of turquoise, increases its durability, and enhances its natural colour. Its colour can also be improved using oil, paraffin, or other colouring agents. In nature, it occurs in many colour variations. The most desirable colour is turquoise, with green being the rarest. Pure blue turquoise is extremely rare, as most turquoise contains brown, dark grey, or black veins. The colour depends on the amount of copper, chromium, vanadium, and iron present. Rare specimens of blue-purple hues, containing strontium impurities, also exist. Turquoise often includes inclusions of pyrite, kaolinite, or wavellite, giving it an interesting structure that is highly valued.
Imitations
When buying at markets, and unfortunately even in some shops or stalls in department stores, one often encounters cheap imitations of this popular stone. The most common imitation is howlite, which is dyed to mimic turquoise. Although still a gemstone, it shares little with turquoise beyond colour (and the resemblance is superficial). The price difference is another clue. Genuine turquoise is rarely found in large sizes, while howlite can be found in nearly any size. Turquoise has a characteristic more greenish, muted colour, while howlite is often a vivid blue. Stabilised chrysocolla or dyed magnesite are also frequently used. A very common imitation in antique jewellery is glass, which is relatively easy to identify. For centuries, turquoise in Europe was considered a semi-precious stone due to its lower hardness and greater availability, making it particularly popular among the middle classes. In the 19th century, it gained popularity and was more frequently combined with gold (previously, it was often paired with silver). It was especially fashionable in the latter half of the 19th century, often combined with pearls.
In Victorian rings, it was often paired with diamond roses, occasionally set in lower-carat gold. Interesting combinations include Australian opals or marcasites. Antique pieces sometimes feature the popular silver filigree bracelets or rings with blue or green turquoise and enamel in a Chinese style, crafted in the 1920s. Turquoise gained popularity immediately after the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922. The discovery triggered a wave of interest in Egyptian-style jewellery, where turquoise played a prominent role due to its use in the pharaoh's burial mask. In the 1950s, Mexican silver jewellery, often paired with turquoise, became increasingly popular. As previously mentioned, turquoise is mostly cut into cabochon shapes, but occasionally, I have come across jewellery with beautifully carved turquoise, such as lotus flower designs. Modern jewellery design often uses turquoise in its natural form, as polished pebbles, for earrings or coral-like necklaces. People have embraced this gift of the gods. The charm of its beautiful and vivid colours has captivated many generations across the world and cultures. It continues to bask in its popularity and will do so for a long time.
